10.82 miles | 5 hours walking time | Start/Finish: Hill Road Car Park, Watlington
A full turn by turn route and GPX file for this walk is available on OS Maps — click the link below to view and download.
This was the first proper walk Elvis and I had done in around a month. Life had gotten in the way — painting, decorating, gardening — the usual list that somehow always expands to fill every available weekend. We were well overdue a day out, and this was one I'd had planned for a while.
The weather played its part. Sunny with some cloud early on, a comfortable 14 degrees, though the wind started picking up later in the afternoon. I had the Sony A350 with me — good walking weather for it — the kind that makes you wonder why you left it so long.
The Start — Hill Road Car Park, Watlington
The walk starts from the public car park on Hill Road, not far from the town centre. It's a good base — if you want to finish the day with something to eat or a drink, Watlington has a few options within easy reach.
Turn right out of the car park and head up Hill Road towards Watlington Hill. As the road curves left you'll see a track off to the right — take it. This leads you to the climb up to the top of Watlington Hill.
Watlington Hill
It's short but it's steep enough to let your legs and lungs know they're working. Don't be put off — it's over quickly, and there's a bench conveniently placed near the top if you need a moment to catch your breath and take in the view. On a clear day like ours you can see for miles in every direction. It's the steepest part of the whole walk, and the fact that it comes right at the start means it's done and dusted before you've had time to think about it too much.
From the top you walk right across Watlington Hill before passing through a gate into a short wooded section. Turn left just before the National Trust car park, then right back onto Hill Road. There's no proper footpath along this section of road, just a worn track in the verge — enough to step off if a car comes through.
Christmas Common and Queen Wood
Turning right at the end of Hill Road takes you into Christmas Common. Follow the road round to the right, passing a few houses, until you reach a row called Forestry Cottages. Immediately after these, take the track into Queen Wood. There are bluebells here — a taste of what's coming later in the walk, though nothing that prepares you for what's ahead.
Prior's Grove
Coming out of Queen Wood, turn right onto Hollandridge Lane for a short stretch before turning right into Prior's Grove. This is the longest woodland section of the walk and in places it's just a sea of purple. The bluebells here are exceptional — the kind that stop you in your tracks and make you glad you came. I normally shoot exclusively in black and white, but I made an exception here and grabbed a couple of shots on my phone just so you can see the colour for yourself.
Leaving the wood you'll pass Hollandridge Farm before entering another woodland section which carries its own good show of bluebells.
Pishill and the Wild Garlic
Continuing towards Pishill, when you're in the vicinity of the church look left as you walk down the road. There's a small wooded copse tucked away, and before you even see it you'll smell it — wild garlic. The scent hits you first and it's genuinely remarkable. Worth stopping for.
Russell's Water to Cookley Green
Skirting the edge of Longwood you'll come to Russell's Water. From here to Cookley Green the route follows a tree-lined path with open fields stretching away on either side. A pleasant, easy stretch after the woodland sections.
Howes Wood and Elvis's Moment
The next significant woodland is Howes Wood — and also where Elvis had his moment. A small mouse-like creature shot out directly in front of him and the reaction that followed can only be described as something from an old cartoon. Full panic. Completely disproportionate. Entirely Elvis.
Ridge Farm and the Final Fields
At Ridge Farm you'll reach a crossroads of tracks and paths. You'll notice a path with a fresh eggs kiosk — just to the right of this track is a path that runs down the side of the farm, separated from the track by a hedge with open fields to your right. Follow it and you'll come out into open farmland.
Turn left and head downhill. There's a tree-lined pond here — when we passed there were ducks with ducklings, which provided a welcome distraction.
From here it's open fields back to Watlington, walking through the town centre and returning to the car park on Hill Road.
The Verdict
This is a genuinely lovely walk. The bluebell woods are the highlight — Prior's Grove in particular is something else at this time of year — but the variety keeps it interesting throughout. Watlington Hill at the start, deep woodland, open farmland, a handful of quiet Chiltern villages and the wild garlic at Pishill all add up to a walk with real character.
The five hours is a reasonable estimate, though we took our time and stopped often enough. Even if you just came to spend an hour on top of Watlington Hill it would be worth the trip on its own.
A full turn by turn route and GPX file for this walk is available on OS Maps — click the link below to view and download.